In a stark monochrome world, the relaxed feeling of
clothing rewritten by details that eliminate functionality
creates a gradient of tension and relaxation depicted in
designer Kenta Orimi’ s 2025 Spring/Summer collection.
This duality reflects the distortion and alienation that
Orimi perceives in the city of Tokyo.
Coats with abstract expressions, featuring a draped sash
at the front, and tailored jackets with wire embedded in
the collar exemplify this concept. Buttons, typically
associated with functionality, are entirely concealed in
the fabric, creating an illusion where only the surface of
the material shapes the design, allowing details to stand
out prominently. Garments such as a trucker jacket that
can be worn upside down, hoodies with kangaroo
pockets placed at an extreme height, and excessively
oversized cut-and-sew pieces emanate an unbalanced
sense of weightlessness, disconnecting from the realistic
human form. The clothing, woven from a restrained
monochrome color palette reminiscent of Tokyo's
skyscrapers, rephrases the distorted image of humans
living in an orderly urban environment, breaking down
the authentic composition that naturally encompasses
functional beauty.
The gaze that materializes punkish elegance aimed at
outsiders is echoed and amplified through the brand's
first original footwear, as well as hair and makeup by
stylist Mikio Aizawa and the unsettling, industrial show
music by MARS89. Pointed-toe patent shoes with velour
shoelaces combine fetishism with the refinement of a
well-bred youth, while wigs that cling flatly introduce a
homogeneous flatness, forming a lifeless, doll-like human
figure. The show opens with a strained sigh, resonating
with the struggles and hardships caused by societal stress
and oppression.
Amidst the inorganic and cold atmosphere drifts a
nihilistic yet bittersweet spirit of rebellion and freedom.
